What is the right temperature to set the air conditioner?

 

Depending on the weather conditions, choosing the right air conditioner temperature will help you feel more comfortable and relaxed. Check out the article below to find out what the highest and lowest temperatures of the air conditioner are, and then adjust accordingly!

1. What is the lowest and highest temperature of the air conditioner?

Lowest temperature

The cooling capacity of each air conditioner line is different, depending on the capacity, brand and integrated cooling technology. Normally, the lowest temperature of air conditioner lines on the market is 16 - 18 degrees Celsius

Maximum temperature

The maximum temperature of air conditioners ranges from 30 - 32 degrees Celsius. However, you should not use the maximum temperature limit so that the compressor can operate stably and ensure that your body feels comfortable and pleasant.

2. Choosing the right air conditioner temperature

On hot days, people often tend to set the air conditioner temperature too low, below 20 degrees Celsius to cool quickly. However, you should adjust the room temperature to be about 5 degrees Celsius different from the outside to avoid negative effects on your health.

In addition, if you have just come back from outside, you should not set the air conditioner temperature to the lowest level. Because this not only wastes electricity when the air conditioner has to operate at full capacity to cool at the highest level, but also has negative effects on health such as "heat shock".

Experts recommend setting the air conditioner at 25 - 28 degrees Celsius is best for our health, especially for rooms with infants and young children, it should be set at 28 - 30 degrees Celsius.

3. Why does the air conditioner not reach the set temperature?

When using the air conditioner, sometimes your home appliance does not reach the set temperature. The cause of this situation may be due to:

The evaporator temperature sensor is broken.

The air conditioner has been used for a long time without being cleaned or maintained, causing the evaporator to become dusty and the cool air cannot escape. Therefore, the device does not reach the desired temperature.

The cooling mode is not set correctly.

The air conditioner is low on gas or has a gas leak, causing the cooling capacity to weaken.

The compressor of the device is damaged.

4. Some notes to help the air conditioner maintain the standard temperature

In addition, there are some other small tips that you should note:

You should choose the night sleep mode of the air conditioner so that the room temperature gradually increases to the desired level. This mode helps us to have a deep sleep, at the same time, saving electricity effectively.

You should arrange the location of the air conditioner in the room so that the cold air does not blow directly on people, especially children to avoid health problems such as pneumonia, cough, ...

You should use a ventilation fan when turning on the air conditioner and do not let the room get too humid.

Do not use the air conditioner continuously, or turn it on/off suddenly for a long time.

Do not use the air conditioner when you have a fever or sweat. This will cause a cold and can make the illness worse.

Always clean the room and clean the air conditioner to reduce bacteria, mold, and dirt in the room.

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13 common air conditioner errors and simple fixes at home

 

When the air conditioner suddenly shows abnormal signs such as not cooling, not starting, having odors, making noise, etc., do not rush to take the machine for repair because some problems can be handled and fixed at home.

1. Air conditioner does not work

When starting the air conditioner but it does not work, the main causes may be as follows:

Unstable power source or no power supply.

The fuse is broken, the transformer is damaged or the wire is short-circuited.

The electrical connections are loose, the safety device is open.

How to fix:

Check the voltage, fuse size and type for damage.

Check the electrical connections, if they are loose, they need to be tightened.

Use a voltage meter to check the circuit.

Check the continuity of the protection device and the control circuit with a meter.

2 Poor cooling capacity

You have started the air conditioner for an hour but the room is still not cool, the reason may be:

The air conditioner has not been cleaned for a long time, the air filter, condenser and evaporator are dirty so they cannot emit cold air.

The air conditioner is low on gas, the gas pipe is loose, open, damaged and leaks gas out.

The evaporator does not have enough air passing through.

Overloading makes the compressor operate inefficiently.

The compressor is damaged.

The cooling air does not circulate.

How to fix:

Clean the air conditioner regularly and periodically depending on the frequency of use, about 3 - 6 months/time.

Check the gas line, charge the gas for the air conditioner.

Check the fan and maintain the condenser.

Check the compressor performance and operating load.

Remove any obstructions to the cooling air flow.

3. The air conditioner is too cold

The cause of the air conditioner being too cold may be due to the temperature controller of the machine being damaged, or the temperature being set too low compared to the usage needs.

How to fix:

Check the circuit of the temperature controller and the wire.

Adjust the temperature accordingly.

4. Compressor noise

The phenomenon of compressor noise often occurs in outdoor condensers. You can easily recognize it by turning on the air conditioner, even though you are in the room, you can still hear the rumbling sound from outside.

The cause of this phenomenon may be due to loose bolts or screws, or damaged parts inside the compressor that make the machine unstable. In addition, excess gas or strong friction between pipes with each other or with the machine shell can also cause noise during operation.

How to fix:

Fix the pipes to prevent them from colliding with each other.

Check if the place where the condenser is placed is flat or not, the compressor shell is dented and causes collision with the internal parts or not. At the same time, check the bolts at the bottom of the machine to see if they are loose or not. Then, reposition the machine to stabilize and tighten the loose bolts.

Discharge the excess gas outside with a hexagon valve. The discharge location is right at the cone end of the condenser.

Replace the new compressor. Before replacing, you need to check the code, brand and capacity to choose the right one.

5. The machine runs continuously but is not cold

Sometimes you will find that the air conditioner is still running continuously but is not cooling effectively. Some causes that can cause this situation are:

Lack of gas due to a leak or a clogged gas pipe.

The air filter and evaporator are dirty, preventing cold air from being blown out.

The condenser is dirty.

Insufficient air passing through the evaporator.

The cooling air is not circulating.

The compressor is not working effectively.

The load is too heavy, causing insufficient power for the machine to operate.

How to fix:

Check the gas system. Remove gas, vacuum and recharge gas if necessary.

Clean the air filter system and evaporator.

Maintain the condenser and radiator system.

Check and remove objects that obstruct the cooling air flow.

Check the load and voltage of the electrical current. If the load is not enough, you should turn off unused electrical devices, or use a voltage stabilizer to ensure stable electrical current.

6. The air conditioner is not cold while there is still air blowing out from the body of the machine

If you feel that the air conditioner is not cold or warms the air even though there is still air blowing out from the body of the machine, it may be due to the following reasons:

The set temperature is higher than the cooling demand.

The room is not sealed, leading to cold air loss to the outside.

The air filter and evaporator are covered with dust.

The room is too large for the capacity of the machine.

How to fix:

Check the temperature setting to see if it is suitable for the cooling needs? Reset the temperature and cooling mode for the air conditioner to achieve the desired cooling effect.

Check if the air filter is working properly, cleaning the air filter will help the air conditioner work well and cool more stably.

Check and close the main door, windows of your house or office if they are open.

Clear the air inlet and outlet ducts in the indoor and outdoor units, then wait about 3 minutes and restart the air conditioner to allow stable air circulation and better air exchange.

The air conditioner may not cool while in compressor protection mode for 3 minutes, so please wait until this mode is completed.

Check if there are any high-heat appliances such as electric grills or hot water basins in the room, the heat emitted will also affect the coolness in the room.

7. Unpleasant odor from the air conditioner

During use, your air conditioner has a foul odor and you smell odors such as:

The pungent smell of gas: Due to the evaporator leaking gas, if the gas concentration is high, it will be dangerous and toxic to the user's health, easily making you unconscious and dizzy.

Bad smell from the toilet: The cause is due to the evaporator drain pipe being directly connected to the toilet drain system.

Moldy smell: Due to long-term use without cleaning, the air conditioner has mold inside and emits a foul odor.

How to fix:

If the air conditioner smells of gas, you need to turn it off immediately, open the room door, use a fan to quickly remove the odor and check the gas pipe again.

If the air conditioner smells of the toilet, you should contact a technician to repair the evaporator drain pipe.

If the air conditioner smells of mold, you just need to clean the evaporator.

8. The machine runs and stops continuously

In some cases, the air conditioner runs for a while and then turns off, then this process repeats continuously, not only wasting electricity but also affecting the experience of using the product.

Some causes of this phenomenon:

Lack or excess of gas causes the machine to operate unstably.

The gas pipe is obstructed and clogged.

The contactor coil of the compressor is damaged.

The condenser is dirty and clogged.

The expansion valve or capillary tube is clogged. Or the sensor bulb of the expansion valve is leaking.

Low voltage is not enough for the machine to operate.

How to fix:

Recharge the gas if it is lacking or drain the gas if it is too much.

Remove the parts that obstruct the pipeline.

Periodically clean the air conditioner. At the same time, maintain the condenser - evaporator and important connection parts.

Replace the expansion valve and capillary tube if necessary.

Ensure the operating voltage of the air conditioner is correct according to the rating on the machine. Use a voltage stabilizer if necessary.

9. The condenser fan does not run

The condenser fan has the function of dissipating heat from the condenser by sucking in outside air and blowing it into the condenser, helping the heat exchange process of the condenser to take place better. The faster the condenser heat dissipation process, the better the cooling efficiency of the air conditioner.

The following reasons will cause the condenser fan to not work, affecting the cooling capacity of the air conditioner:

Due to the mechanical part: After a long time of use, the condenser fan can wear out the bearing, the shaft is tight, the grease is dry, ... leading to muscle stiffness, making the fan unable to rotate. You can easily recognize it by using your hand to turn the fan blade. If it feels heavy when rotating, the fan stops when you let go of your hand, then the mechanical part is damaged, affecting the operation of the condenser.

Due to the electrical part: Broken wires, burned motors, burned capacitors, broken power cords are all electrical damages. The way to recognize it is to use an ammeter to measure the current running in the circuit.

In some air conditioner models, the power supply to the fan is controlled from the evaporator circuit board. Therefore, when the circuit board is faulty, the fan will also stop working.

In case the block is damaged, the gas stops cooling, leading to a system error, so the entire condenser stops working.

How to fix:

Check the capacitors, circuits, etc. yourself with an electric meter. Or you can contact the warranty staff to do a more general check and replace some damaged components if any.

10. The evaporator fan does not run

The evaporator fan has the effect of cooling the internal parts of the evaporator, while also preventing dust from sticking to the evaporator, helping the air circulate stably. The evaporator fan not running will cause no cold air to blow out from the air deflector, the air conditioner will not cool.

The reason why the evaporator fan does not run may be due to:

The fan motor is short-circuited or touches the shell, causing the air conditioner fan to wear out, causing muscle cramps.

The power cord to the fan is broken or the power cord is loose. The motor wire is burned, a wire in the motor is broken, etc. are also the reasons why the evaporator fan does not work.

The fan contactor coil is damaged.

The capacitor is short-circuited.

How to fix:

If the evaporator fan does not work due to long-term use, you should contact the warranty center to check and replace the components.

11. The machine is low on gas, out of gas

The gas inside the air conditioner is a chemical that does not decompose, so it will not normally be lost during the operation of the machine. In the case of a low on gas, out of gas, it only occurs due to a leak in the pipeline, a leaking valve, etc., or during a new installation, the technician does not check and refill the necessary gas.

To know if the air conditioner is low on gas or not, you should pay attention to the following phenomena:

The machine is not cold, not cold enough.

The small pipe valve of the condenser is covered with snow.

The operating current is lower than the rated current recorded on the machine.

The gas pressure sucked into the compressor is lower than the normal pressure (normal value is from 65 - 75 psi). The pressure on the high pressure side is also lower than normal.

In some air conditioners, the control board will automatically turn off after 5 - 10 minutes of operation and report an error on the condenser.

How to fix:

Contact the warranty center to check the pipeline system and refill the gas.

12. Block running and stopping continuously due to overload

The air conditioner block not running will also lead to the air conditioner not cooling. This can be due to the following reasons:

The compressor has no power supply: Due to the control board, open circuit or damaged contactor that cannot be closed.

Due to damaged capacitor, damaged condenser fan, poor operation of compressor motor.

Burned motor coil inside.

Lack or excess gas.

Low or unstable voltage.

How to fix:

In case of burned motor wire, damaged fan or other components, you need to replace them.

Fully charge the gas if it is lacking or drain the gas if it is excess.

Use a voltage stabilizer to ensure stable voltage.

13. The machine is leaking water in the evaporator

The air conditioner has the ability to continuously create condensation, the excess water will be drained out by plastic, rubber pipes or small electric pumps. If the machine is leaking water, dripping in the evaporator, it is due to the following reasons:

When installing the drain pipe without a slope, the water cannot drain out and remains in the trough. Over time, it leads to overflow in the trough and flows down the wall. If the wall is made of plaster, it will cause serious damage.

If you use the machine for a long time without cleaning, the drain hole at the cold side is clogged, causing overflow and water to leak.

How to fix:

To make the drain pipe slope and drain better, you need to readjust the pipe. For coolers with long pipes, the drain pipe should be placed in a certain position, not along the pipe.

Clean the machine

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Simple way to clean washing machine at home that anyone can do

 

Surely everyone knows that the washing machine is a device that has the function of cleaning clothes, and like humans, the washing machine also needs to be "washed" clean to be able to operate at full capacity. Through this article, hopefully you will know how to clean the washing machine at home to prolong the "life" of the machine!

1 Why do you need to clean your washing machine regularly?

Regular cleaning of the washing machine is very important for the machine to last a long time, but not everyone pays attention to this. Here are the reasons why you should clean your washing machine regularly:

Aesthetically, the washing machine will look clean, and always be in a new state, while preventing bacteria and mold from growing.

Washed clothes are always clean, fragrant, without detergent residue or lint, avoiding irritation, protecting the user's skin.

Help the machine operate effectively and durably over time.

Save a significant amount of monthly electricity and water costs.

Minimize unnecessary errors on the washing machine.

2. How to clean a top-loading washing machine (vertical drum)

Step 1: Clean the outside of the machine

Prepare a towel or soft cloth dipped in water and wring it out to clean the dirt on the machine body.

If you encounter stubborn stains, try mixing baking soda with a little water to create a slightly thick mixture, use a damp cloth to dip and wipe the stains until clean. Then wipe again with another clean cloth.

Avoid using strong detergents or hard objects to clean the machine body because it can damage the components as well as peel off the outer coating.

Step 2: Clean the washing drum

For washing machines with a drum cleaning mode:

First, turn on the washing machine and select the "drum cleaning" function button. To ensure the drum is cleaned most effectively, put in the drum a washing machine cleaning tablet or a specialized solution.

If you don't have one, you can use a little javen water, or mix cleaning solutions at home with lemon, vinegar, baking soda, etc.

Finally, press the "Start" button, and let the washing machine do its job. After finishing, use a dry towel to wipe the inside of the machine, open the door to ensure that no water remains inside and keep the machine dry.

Note: Some models can clean themselves without detergent, but others require it. You should refer to the user manual to check if your machine needs additional detergent.

For washing machines without a drum cleaning mode:

Use a cleaning tablet, or replace it with javen water, or a vinegar solution combined with baking soda. Next, start any washing and rinsing cycle, after about 15 minutes you should press the "Pause" button to soak the drum with detergents for 30 - 60 minutes and then continue to start the machine until the end of the cycle.

After finishing, use a dry towel to wipe the inside of the machine to avoid moisture and open the door to ensure the machine is always dry.

Step 3: Clean the filter bag

The washing machine filter bag is a part that many people often ignore when cleaning the washing machine, but it plays a very important role. If the filter bag is dirty and turns brown over time, it will affect the washing quality of the machine, so when cleaning, you should also pay attention to this part.

For most washing machines, the filter bag or filter tray will be inside the washing machine. If you can't find it, please review the instruction manual. You just need to take it out, wash it, and then reinstall it.

Step 4: Clean other parts

In addition to the parts mentioned above, you should also pay attention to cleaning the washing machine lid and washing the detergent and fabric softener trays.

Not only that, you should also check the filter of the water supply valve from time to time to make sure it is not clogged or clogged. For details, please refer to the following article.

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Causes of washing machine electric leakage and how to handle it

 

Sometimes when you touch the washing machine and get a slight electric shock, your machine may have an electric leak. Read this article to learn about the causes and how to fix the phenomenon of electric leakage in the washing machine!

1. Causes of electric leakage in washing machines

If you touch the washing machine and get an electric shock, your washing machine may have an electric leakage (electric leakage). Here are some causes of this phenomenon:

Location of the machine: If your washing machine is placed in a damp, uneven place, it is easy for electricity to leak out of the shell.

Exposed or broken wire: During use, the wire can be bitten by rodents and touch the shell, causing electric shock.

Not connecting the ground wire to the washing machine: Connecting the ground wire is a measure to prevent electric shock when an electric leakage occurs, but it is often overlooked when installing the machine.

2. How to handle when the washing machine has an electric leak

Check the power cord

Try to see if the washing machine's power cord is exposed or broken. If so, you just need to reconnect or replace the cord to ensure safety.

Reverse the plug of the washing machine

First, you need to use an electric tester to check if the machine's shell has electricity. If so, just unplug it, rotate it 180 degrees and plug it back in, then try to check again to see if there is still electricity leakage. If there is, try the method below.

Connect the ground wire to the washing machine

First, you need to use a screwdriver to remove the screw that contacts the metal surface on the back of the washing machine.

Then, use a piece of wire with 2 separate ends, each end 5 - 10 cm, and connect 1 end to the ground post, 1 end to the screw above. Finally, tighten the screw and use an electric tester to touch the machine's shell to check if there is electricity.

In case you cannot connect the ground wire, use the F type socket of some European countries.

3. Some notes when using to avoid electric leakage in the washing machine

To limit the situation of electric leakage in the washing machine and at the same time prolong the life of the machine, here are some notes when using:

Wear slippers when using the washing machine if the machine has an electric leakage and there is no time to repair it.

Avoid placing the washing machine in a humid place such as in the bathroom, or in a place with direct sunlight. You can use a washing machine stand to limit the situation of water coming into direct contact with the machine, which can easily cause damage.

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19 common errors in washing machines - causes and solutions

 

Washing machines after a period of use will often have many errors due to many different reasons, causing your washing machine to lose performance as well as reduce its lifespan. Let's learn about the most common washing machine errors and how to fix them to make cleaning clothes in your family simpler!

1. The washing machine shakes and makes unusually loud noises

Cause:

Your washing machine may have damaged components such as shock absorber springs, broken or damaged shafts and bearings, or insufficient water supply to the washing machine.

Due to user negligence during the use of the washing machine, such as placing the washing machine on an uneven surface, objects falling off clothes and getting stuck in the drum, putting too many items in the machine causing overload or items being pushed to one side causing the drum to shift, etc.

How to fix:

First, you need to check if the washing machine is properly placed, check the washing machine drum to see if there are too many clothes in the machine, if the clothes are twisted together, if anything is stuck in the drum,... then rearrange the clothes, remove stuck objects from the machine.

Make sure there is enough water supply for the washing machine, avoid the situation where clothes rub against each other causing noise.

If the above measures are not effective, then at this time, your washing machine components may have a problem, specifically due to a damaged bearing or shock absorber spring. Please contact the warranty center or a professional repair center for support!

2. Even in overflow mode, water does not flow out of the drain pipe

Cause: The user does not follow the instructions correctly, setting the water level and pressure lower than normal.

How to fix: You just need to adjust the water level and pressure so that the water supply rate meets the standard of 15 liters/minute.

3. The machine does not turn off automatically even though the washing process has ended

Cause: The machine's power button is stuck, which is a common cause of this problem.

How to fix: You should contact the warranty center for support.

4. Washing water draining time is too long

Cause: It could be due to the drain pipe being connected incorrectly, being clogged or being deformed or distorted by external factors.

How to fix: Turn off the washing machine and check the drain pipe carefully

5. Washing machine does not take in water

Cause:

The error of washing machine not taking in water is usually due to damaged components in the machine such as water pressure sensor switch, board (control panel).

The filter of the water supply valve is dirty.

The user forgot to open the water supply valve or did not pay attention to the amount of water and pressure enough to supply the washing machine.

How to fix:

Check the water supply, whether the water supply faucet is open or not, whether the metal mesh inside the water pipe into the machine is clogged or not, ... to fix it promptly.

In case the above solutions do not work, call a repairman to check and repair the damaged components.

6. The washing machine does not spin

Cause:

The drain pipe, drain valve, and water inlet pipe are clogged.

Incorrect installation location or the washing machine door is not closed tightly.

The clothes are not placed evenly.

The belt and motor are broken.

The washing machine program is faulty.

How to fix:

Check carefully whether the washing machine lid is closed or not, whether the washing machine is placed appropriately.

Adjust the amount of laundry in the washing drum to balance.

Check again whether the drain pipe and drain valve are clogged or not.

If the washing machine still does not spin after performing the above operation, the belt, motor, or washing program may be broken. You should call a repairman to help you fix it.

7. The washing machine is not working even though it is plugged in

Cause: The error may come from the power source (voltage is too low) or you have not pressed the power switch and start button.

How to fix: You should prioritize checking the following important parts: the power switch (POWER) and the start button (START/PAUSE) to see if you have pressed it, the power cord and power source are really stable.

8. The washing machine does not clean clothes

Cause: It may be because the amount of water and the amount of clothes are not balanced or the cleaning of the machine and the washing drum is not thorough enough, affecting the clothes. In addition, putting too many clothes in the machine can also make the washing machine not clean.

How to fix: Just adjust, pay attention to observe and clean the machine and the washing drum more carefully, you can improve the washing efficiency of the machine.

9. Clothes still have tiny detergent particles

Cause: You may have used too much detergent, so the excess is still on the clothes or the water temperature is too low.

How to fix: You should add enough detergent and the temperature must be higher than 40 degrees Celsius so that the water can dissolve all the detergent.

10. The process of pumping water into the washing machine is weak

Cause: The water pressure supplied to the washing machine is not strong enough.

How to fix:

Place the washing machine in a place with stronger water pressure.

Pour water directly into the washing machine or use a booster pump to make the machine work faster.

11. The washing machine continuously drains water without stopping

Cause: The washing machine's drain valve is stuck because foreign objects enter the washing machine with the clothes.

How to fix:

Mild water leakage: You wash the machine normally, after a while the foreign objects will automatically flow out with the water and the washing machine will return to normal.

Heavier leakage: Ask a specialist from the warranty center for timely repair.

12. The washing machine suddenly supplies water in the middle of the washing or rinsing process

Cause:

The amount of water you supply to the washing machine is not enough

You add more clothes to the machine.

How to fix: Check and adjust the amount of water you supply to the washing machine. In addition, you should also separate the laundry into separate batches, limiting intervention during the washing process.

13. Washing machine does not run

Cause:

The problem of the washing machine not running can come from some errors during use such as the washing drum being tilted, the washing machine lid not being closed, the amount of clothes being overloaded.

The washing machine is not supplied with enough water.

The washing machine lid is not closed tightly.

Broken belt or errors in components, control circuits, sensor systems, etc.

How to fix:

When this happens, you need to carefully check the status of the washing machine to see if it is powered on, if the power cord is loose, if the washing drum is straight, if the detergent compartment and the washing machine lid are closed, if enough water is pumped in to find a way to fix it.

In case the washing machine still does not run even though you have performed the above operations, there may be a problem with the components and control system of the washing machine. You will need the intervention of professional repairmen.

14. The washing machine does not drain water

Cause:

The drain pipe is clogged, the lint filter is clogged with too much residue, or the washing machine lid is not closed tightly.

In addition, some component errors such as a broken belt are also common causes of the washing machine not draining water.

How to fix:

Clean the lint filter if necessary, check the drain pipe for kinks or blockages, or make sure to close the washing machine lid tightly if it is still open.

In case the belt is broken, you can replace it yourself or call the warranty or repair center for better support.

15. The washing machine cannot press the Start button

Cause: Due to unstable power source, faulty machine components, the door lock is not closed tightly or is broken, the control panel is disabled or due to errors during use that cause the machine to be damp or wet.

How to fix:

Make sure the power supply to the machine is stable.

Check if the child lock function is on or not, if so, turn it off.

Limit the control panel area from getting wet or wet. If you accidentally get them wet, use a dryer and slowly dry the control panel area; at the same time, move the washing machine to a dry, low humidity place.

If the washing machine door is not closed tightly, open it and close it again. In case the machine still cannot press the Start button, the lock door is likely to be damaged. Please contact the washing machine repair or warranty center.

16. Washing machine overflows foam

Cause: The main cause of foam overflow is the detergent. When you put too much detergent in a wash, the machine will overflow. In addition, not using a specialized detergent for washing machines can also cause this problem.

How to fix: When encountering a situation where the machine overflows foam, stay calm and follow these instructions:

Turn off the machine and wait for the soap to dissolve, then turn it back on and select the non-spin wash mode. When the machine stops, press the drain button to clean the water in the washing machine. Remove all the clothes and repeat the cycle.

Use a specialized detergent or liquid detergent for washing machines.

Use a moderate amount of detergent.

Clean the washing machine regularly.

17. Clothes are torn after washing

Cause: When you forget to remove metal objects, items placed in your shirt or pants pockets such as: hairpins, paper clips, keys, sharp iron objects mixed with laundry will easily tear your clothes.

How to fix: Carefully check personal items, keys or sharp iron objects mixed with clothes, and remove all of them from the washing machine before washing to avoid tearing clothes and most of all, your washing machine will avoid unnecessary damage.

18. Washing machine supplies water during spin cycle

Cause: This problem is usually caused by your washing machine being unbalanced, the machine shaking violently during spin cycle, or the clothes inside the drum being pushed to a corner.

How to fix:

Check if the laundry is unbalanced: You need to put the clothes in the washing machine one by one, arrange the clothes evenly in the washing machine to avoid them rolling together.

Check if the machine is on the rack or check if the washing machine is off the rack.

Shake the machine to see if the machine's feet are unbalanced, if so, adjust the machine's feet to balance.

Check the 4 washers of your washing machine to see if any are damaged and replace them if there are signs of damage.

19. Washing machine leaks electricity

Causes:

The machine may leak due to the following reasons:

The plug is plugged into the wrong outlet.

During use, the power cord may be bitten by mice or other rodents.

During the installation of the washing machine, the technician skipped the step of grounding the washing machine.

How to fix:

It is necessary to ground the washing machine to avoid electric leakage. Please contact an electrician or washing machine installer for quick support.

Do not install the washing machine in the bathroom or in damp places, or places where the washing machine can be affected by environmental impacts such as direct sunlight, rain, wind, etc.

When not using the washing machine, unplug it so that the control circuits are not damaged due to being soaked in electricity for a long time.

You should use good washing machines with anti-rat mode or use anti-rat measures such as setting traps, spraying rat poison, etc.

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Procedure For Renew Propeller on ship

Propeller is the most significant machinery system of the ship. No matter what type of propeller it is, ship owners never make compromises on such important equipment as it directly affects the efficiency and safety of the vessel. Here we discuss about fixed pitch keyless propeller renewal.

Why is propeller renewed?

Procedure For Renew Propeller on ship

How to Measure Cylinder Liner Bore Wear on ship?

Types of Mechanical Measuring Tools and Gauges Used on Ships

what type of propeller used on ship? Controllable Pitch Propeller (CPP) Vs Fixed Pitch Propeller (FPP)?

There are various reasons for which a ship’s propeller could be renewed. Some of the significant reasons are:

1) Damage to the propeller

2) Dynamically unbalanced

3) Renewing the existing propeller with a new propeller that is of better material, larger blade area etc.

Below we will learn about the procedures involved in renewing a propeller.

Before decoupling the intermediate shaft and the propeller shaft (tail shaft), make thorough inspection of the propulsion system. Generally, the shaft jack up test is done before removing the intermediate shaft.

Fig 1. Jack up test arrangement

Figure 2: Displacement VS. Load

Important points on Jack up test:

1) In jack up test we actually jack up the shaft to get vivid picture of the bearing reaction, the results need to be corrected

2) Hence, it is advised to place the hydraulic jack close to the bearing for better accuracy

3) To verify the results, ABS reaction Coefficient matrix can be referred wherein the expected gradient of the average line in the curve is tabulated (see the above figure).

Once the Jack up test is done, Intermediate bearing cap is removed, and then the intermediate shaft is removed prior to which the tail shaft is secured. It is very important to protect the bearing area. Necessary pad eyes need to be welded, make sure redundant pad eyes are welded and lifting arrangements are sufficient to take the load of the intermediate shaft. Another important thing to note is the location where the intermediate shaft can be secured.

Figure 3: Intermediate shaft removal

Figure 4: Intermediate shaft removal

Once the intermediate shaft is removed and secured in a safe location in the ship, check the condition of the plumber block bearings. Look for any white metal debris or contact marks.

Image 5: Intermediate shaft bearing

The tail shaft removal is done in the dry dock.

– For this, the first step is to cut the rope guard and keep it aside. Propeller cone is to be removed and then slack the aft stern tube seal (prior to which stern tube oil need to be drained).

– Then propeller nut is removed (make sure reference point is marked on the tail shaft) and the propeller is secured prior to the tail shaft removal.

– Lifting and shifting arrangements need to be pre-planned.

– Remove the forward stern tube seal and then pull the tail shaft and shift to the lifting zone; in some cases tail shaft can be removed through the skylight but in most cases it requires cutting ship side shell for access. Tail shaft is carefully pulled out through the stern tube and removed through the access. It is advised to perform NDT on the tail shaft taper area.

Figure 7: Tail shaft removal

Propeller –Tail Shaft Bedding

Propeller and tail shaft bedding reveals how good is the contact. This is done by applying Prussian blue to the tail shaft tapered area. The tail shaft is then lifted vertically and matted to the propeller hub which is positioned horizontally. The contact area in the hub is visually examined and the class requires at least 70-80% of contact. Blue mark zone on the hub is polished and process is repeated until you get 70-80% fit.

Figure 8: Propeller –tail shaft bedding

Figure 9: Propeller –tail shaft bedding

Propeller Mounting

On completion and satisfaction of propeller bedding, tail shaft and other accessories that are removed are installed back. Then the propeller is mounted. This is a significant stage and careful attention is paid during the same. Here we will discuss about the oil injection method for a keyless propeller mounting.

1) Clean the propeller boss and the propeller shaft

2) Slide the propeller to the propeller shaft and align to the match marks. (Prior to this step, remember to record the temperature of propeller boss and propeller shaft)

3) Screw in the Pilgrim Nut

4) Dry fit: Actuate the high-pressure pump connecting the Pilgrim nut, allow the propeller to slide in to certain distance and set the dial indicator to zero. The maker always recommends initial load

5)Wet fit: Then actuate the high pressure pump connecting the propeller boss expansion oil port and simultaneously actuate the nut pressure pump. Raise the pressure gradually until the predetermined push up length is achieved (determination of push up length is explained below)

6) Once the required push up length is achieved gradually release the pressure of boss expansion port and then release the nut pressure

7) Remove all the connections and plug both propeller boss port and pilgrim nut port

8) Remember to take shaft jack up test post the installation

9) Verify the coupling alignment using sag and gap method

Propeller mounting arrangement

Figure 10: Propeller push up arrangement

Figure 11: Propeller push up arrangement

Calculation of predetermined push up length (as recommended by IACS)

Alternatively, there are graphs provided by manufacturer, which can be used in lieu of the above-mentioned formulae recommended by the class.

Permissible push up length can be captured for the corresponding temperature.

Conclusion

Propeller renewal is not about removing the existing propeller and just installing the new one, there are many other significant factors to overcome. Following are important points to be taken care of:

1) Good interference fit to transmit the torque: Damaging factor here is the varying temperature and differential thermal expansion of the propeller hub (bronze) and propeller shaft (steel).

Thermal expansion coefficient of bronze is about 10 and steel is about 7 (in 10-6 in/Fahrenheit). This will affect the fitting, hence keeping all this in mind required push up length is calculated such that the sufficient friction is achieved to transmit the torque.

2) Reduced stress on propeller hub and propeller shaft: Von misses stress should be less than 0.7 times yield stress of propeller material. Von misses criterion is one of the most commonly used failure theory.

To assess the von misses stress:

1) Derive the stress elements

2) Find the principal stresses (Mohr’s circle)

 3) From the principal stresses von misses stress can be derived (for 2d). If it is greater than the yield strength, then the material fails. It is just a simple explanation about von misses stress. Taking all these into account, maker represent the minimum push up length graphically.

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All types of ship machines and parts get worn out due to continuous usage and working. Proper maintenance and routine checks are necessary to ensure that the machines work for a longer time. In this article, we will have a look at various reasons that lead to cylinder liner wear and how it can be minimised.

Reasons for Cylinder Liner Wear

The wear in the cylinder liner is mainly because of following reasons:

1) Due to friction.
2) Due to corrosion.
3) Abrasion
4) Scuffing or Adhesion

Frictional Wear:

Whenever two surfaces slide over each other, friction is produced which leads to wearing down of both the surfaces. In liner wear, the surfaces are piston rings sliding over the cylinder liner. The frictional wear depends upon various factors like speed of movement between the surfaces, material involved, temperature, the load on engine, pressure, maintenance, lubrication, and combustion efficiency.

Corrosion:

The cylinder liner wear due to corrosion is caused due to these reasons:
– Burning of heavy fuel oil in the combustion space:
This happens because heavy fuel oil contains high sulfur content. During combustion, acids are formed inside the space which should be neutralised by cylinder oil which is alkaline in nature. The production of acids will be more if sulfur content is more, leading to the formation of sulphuric acid. Sulphuric acid is formed due to absorption of the condensate or moisture present inside the combustion space.

– Lower combustion chamber temperature because of reduced service load:

As the low load operation of the marine engine is gaining popularity, it also leads to low temperature in the combustion chamber. If the cylinder oil quantity is not matched properly with the load, it may lead to corrosion of liner.

Acid sulfuric corrosion is found more in the lower part of the liner as the temperature of jacket water is very low. Corrosion due to sulfur will be high due to the presence of water in fuel and condensate in the air. This wear is generally seen between the quills. The wear near the quills enlarges and gives a characteristic of the clover leaf shape to the wear pattern. This phenomenon is called clover leafing.

Abrasion

This type of cylinder liner wear is due to the hard particles present and formed during combustion. Catalytic fines in the fuel, the ash formed during the combustion, metal swarf, dust and accumulated wear particles in the lube oil cause abrasive wear.

The abrasion wear rate is higher at TDC and BDC of the liner. Once the abrasive wear hits the surface, due to exposure of metal without protection, it is highly susceptible to corrosion wear too.

Adhesion or Scuffing

This is a form of local welding between the particles of piston rings and the liner surface. As the piston is moving inside the liner, the welding which has occurred breaks and leads to the formation of abrasive material. The abrasive material will increase the rate of wear of the liner. This is generally caused by insufficient lubrication due to which a large amount of heat is produced and microscopic welding of rings and liner surface takes place. Due to this type of wear the liner loses its properties to adhere cylinder oil to the surface. One more reason or this phenomenon is polishing of the surface caused by scuffing, giving liners a mirror finish.

How Can Cylinder Liner Wear be Minimised?

Cylinder wear can be minimised by carrying out the following steps:

1) By avoiding any ingress of water inside the liner by properly treating the fuel oil.
2) By maintaining the correct grade of cylinder oil.
3) By supplying correct feed rate with load change dependent lubrication system
4) By avoiding ingress of moisture from the charge air.
5) By maintaining proper jacket water temperature.
6) By supplying good quality purified fuel oil inside the combustion chamber
7) By properly maintaining the fuel injector and fuel system for correct atomization and injection of fuel inside the chamber
8) By doing regular scavenge port inspection for early detection of piston ring wear and liner surface wear

9) By doing proper running in of new liner as prescribed by the engine maker

10) By honing the wear liner surface to retain oil in the small pocket avoiding scuffing and other problems

How to Measure Cylinder Liner Bore Wear?

Cylinder liner ovality has to be gauged at regular intervals as specified in the maintenance manual. The records of gauging are kept for each cylinder and wear rate is calculated.

Procedure:

1. After engine is shut down and cooled, open the cylinder head and remove the piston
2. Cover the stuffing box hole to avoid debris falling inside crankcase
3. Remove the liner ring and clean the carbon deposits from top surface of the liner
4. Insert a ladder and carefully inspect the liner surface before gauging
5. The cylinder liner wear is measured by a standard template, which consists of strategically positioned holes, wherein the micrometer is placed and the readings are taken
6. The readings are taken for both port starboard and forward aft positions. This is done because the wear is not same in both direction and the cylinder liner ovality is checked.

A liner diameter measuring instrument ( a type of micrometer) along with a standard template rod is used to measure liner dimensions. Generally while taking the measurement the temperature of the liner and micrometer should be kept at the same temperature.

If the temperature exceeds than that of the liner or vice versa then the readings have to be corrected by multiplying the value with the correction factor and deducting the value obtained from the reading taken. The reading obtained at the end will be the correct reading.

The wear rate will be different inside the liner. The wear will be more in the top one-third part as combustion takes place there and temperatures and pressure are also very high at the top.

How to Calculate Cylinder Liner Wear Rate and Ovality?

For calculating the cylinder liner wear rate, the current reading is compared with the last taken reading. Suppose, for a liner of 800 mm bore, the position 1 latest reading (for P-S) comes out to be 841.81. The last recorded reading for position 1 (P-S) is 841.45. Hence the wear for this position in P-S direction is 0.36.

Now the position 1 latest reading (for F-A) comes out to be 841.78. The last recorded reading for position 1 (F-A) is 841.45. Hence the wear for this position in F-A direction is 0.33.

To calculate the ovality, the F-A wear rate is deducted from P-S wear rate, which will be 0.03.

Similarly, cylinder liner wear rate and cylinder liner ovality for all positions are calculated in a similar manner.

An approximate normal cylinder liner wear rate is about 0.1 mm per 1000 running hours. The wear rate increases if the engine is overloaded. Generally, the liner has to be replaced when the cylinder liner wear rate is about 0.6-0.8% of the bore diameter or as per the manufacturer’s recommendation

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Installation Procedures

1. Make sure the pipeline and flange faces are clean. Any foreign material such as metal filings, pipe scale, welding slag, welding rods, etc. can limit disc movement or damage the disc or seat.
2. Gaskets are not required on resilient seated valves because they extend to both faces of the valve.
3. Align the pipe-work, and spread the flanges enough to allow the valve body to be easily inserted between the flanges without contacting the pipe flanges.
4. Check that the valve disc has been set to about 10% open so it doesn't become jammed in the fully seated position.
5. Insert the valve between the flanges as shown, taking care not to damage the seat faces. Always lift the valve by the locating holes or by using a nylon sling on the neck or the body. Never lift the valve by the actuator or operator mounted on the valve.
6. Place the valve between the flanges, centre it, insert the bolts and hand-tighten them. Carefully open the disc, making sure the disc does not contact the inside of the adjacent pipes.
7. Very slowly close the valve disc to ensure disc edge clearance from the adjacent pipe flange.
8. Fully open the disc and tighten all flange bolts as shown.
9. Repeat a full close to full open rotation of the disc to ensure proper clearances.

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